Guide · 6 min read
How to choose a live centre
Five checks that get you the right centre the first time — taper, load, speed, point type and duty.
A live centre supports the tailstock end of your work while letting it spin freely on its own bearings. Choose the wrong one and you get runout, heat, chatter or a seized centre mid-job. Here is how we spec one on the shop floor.
1. Match the Morse taper
The shank has to match your tailstock bore. Most Australian lathes run MT2 to MT5. If you are not sure, measure the large end of the bore or check the machine plate, then pick the centre to suit. Our live centres cover MT1 through MT6. See the Morse taper guide if you need to confirm.
2. Rate the load
Heavier and longer work pushes harder on the centre. Match the centre’s rated load to the mass you are turning, with headroom for interrupted cuts. Our standard range suits general work; the heavy-duty line is rated to 1,500 kg for big bar and roughing.
3. Check the RPM ceiling
Every live centre has a maximum safe speed, and that ceiling drops as the load climbs. Stay inside the envelope and the sealed bearings last for years. Running small, light work fast? Choose a centre built for high RPM. See RPM & load.
4. Pick the point type
A standard 60° point suits most centre-drilled work. Need tools in close to small diameters for threading or forming? The Daintree Spacepoint uses a slim profile that clears the compound. Turning tube or pipe? Reach for a pipe centre or cone instead.
5. Standard, heavy-duty or CNC
| Type | Best for | Typical load |
|---|---|---|
| Standard | General turning, maintenance | Light–medium |
| Heavy Duty | Big bar, roughing, interrupted cuts | To 1,500 kg |
| CNC / Chucking | High speed, interchangeable points | Medium, high RPM |
Still weighing it up?
Tell us the machine, the material and the job. We will spec the exact centre. Ask a machinist →